Categories » Home Improvement And DIY » EXTERIOR WALLS » Exterior Wallcoatings
Spray applied wallcoatings are the ideal alternative to having to repair or repaint the exterior walls of your home every year. Spray wall coating systems are often applied by a specialist contractor using specialist spray equipment & are are generally NOT diy use. In addition, there are other wallcoating systems which require application by a trowel, similar to a coat of render or stucco, and then a pattern is rolled into a coloured topcoat. Reputable companies offer a guarantee against their products chipping, fading, peeling, cracking etc.
- » Never Paint Again wallcoating systemsWebsite: www.neverpaintagain.co.ukTelephone: 0870 991 3661Our high performance exterior wall coating products are second to none and appli...
- » All Weather CoatingAll Weather Coating is one of the longest established protective wall coating co...
- » 4 Seasons Systems exterior coatingsProvides long life guaranteed coatings to the exterior walls of your property....
- » Avant Coatings Ltd- Exterior Wall CoatingsExterior Wall Coatings contractors, Avant Coatings Ltd offer professional advice...
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What are exterior wallcoatings?
The 1st stage usually is to make the building structurally sound which entails cleaning of mould and algae, repairing cracked or loose render, pebbledash and pointing, masking up windows, applying a slush or primer coat, then spraying, usually with a Graco president airless spray machine or a gravity fed hopper gun, (or even a trowelled application) a coating which is up to 20 times the thickness of paint and will outlast exterior masonry paint for many years on the external walls of your home. These products are often referred to as textured masonry coatings, exterior coatings, elastomeric coatings, high performance wallcoatings, or just simply, wallcoatings. These products are NOT DIY. Please contact one of the companies listed here for a competitive quote.
The psychology of paint colours. How colours can affect your mood
Adapted from www.paintquality.com (North America).
Without a doubt there is a psychology of color. Color impacts our mood, our appetite, our energy level. Years of color response research have shown that certain colors elicit specific--and often strong--responses.
COLOR WARM UP
Colors in the red, orange and yellow families are referred to as "warm" colors since they evoke images associated with heat, like fire or sunshine. As a result they make us feel warm in a psychological sense.
This powerful color increases blood pressure and heart rate. It often produces feelings of intimacy, energy, passion and sexuality. It also stimulates the appetite and is often used in restaurants and is an excellent choice for dining rooms in the home.
Like red, orange warms a room but in a less dramatic and passionate way. The mood and attitude of orange is more friendly than fiery; more welcoming than seductive. Orange works well in living rooms and family rooms and is also a good choice for children's bedrooms.
Yellow grabs attention and catches the eye like no other color, hence the use of yellow highlighters in offices. In poorly lit foyers and hallways, yellow shows the way. In their bedrooms, elderly people report that yellow lifts their mood. But bright yellow can be too strong and may actually cause anxiety in infants, young children and the elderly.
COLOR COOL OUT
Blues, greens, violets and their intermediates are considered cool colors because of their references to pastoral landscapes and ocean vistas. When we look at these colors they elicit feelings of peace, tranquility and relaxation.
Soothing blue is an ideal bedroom color choice for adults and children. But that same blue that lulls us to sleep also suppresses our appetites, possibly because there are very few naturally blue foods. Put blue to bed, but try and keep it out of the dining room.
As the dominant color in nature, we are at home with green anywhere in the house. Light greens work well in baths and living rooms; mid-range greens are a great accent for kitchens and dining rooms. The calming effect of green makes it popular in hospitals, schools and work environments.
Despite the favorable response violet elicits in children, many adults dislike purples, with rosier shades of violet being somewhat more appealing. Children's bedrooms and play areas may be good places to experiment with this color family.
Article: Five best and worst home improvements for adding value
By Nic Cicutti, MSN Money special correspondent
If you are improving your home, you want to know whether the work you do will help you add value to your home or whether you will lose money Here are a few tips in terms of what will add value and what will not.
The five best improvements:
Redecorating: on a pound-per-pound basis, this is probably the cheapest item of home improvement you can pay for. Yet the right paint job can add yup to 10% to the final value of your home.
An extra bathroom can add 5% to the value of your home, as long as it is not built at the expense of a bedroom. If the property is fairly large and has upwards of five bedrooms with one bathroom, you stand to gain. If it means moving from three bedrooms to two, don't do it.
Garages are sought-after features. Build correctly, they can add up to 5% to the value of a home. At the very least, they usually recoup an investment.
Lofts, especially those which add an extra room and maybe even a separate bath or shower room, can add upwards of 10% to the value of a home, as long as they are in keeping with the rest of the home and built by specialists within all appropriate planning rules. The aim is to make them a virtually indistinguishable part of the rest of the property.
Central heating system replacement: they may be expensive and will not necessarily add to the value of your home. But they are vital to holding up the sale price of your property. And in the meantime, they will recoup their cost through more efficient heating.
The five worst improvements:
Plastic double glazing. On all but the most modern homes, this will not only cost thousands - but almost certainly knock thousands off the value of your home, especially if all other properties in the area don't have it. Secondary glazing on the inside of existing windows may be preferable for a period home with original features.
Creating off-road parking for a car directly outside your home. Yes, it's probably safer, but you have destroyed a chunk of your front garden and made the front of your house much less attractive. This can take up to £5,000 off the best asking price. If you need to do it, try to do it at the side of the property.
A new kitchen is a popular home improvement but homeowners are unlikely to get back more than their original investment. In some cases, you will actually lose money. But it may help underpin the right asking price.
Adding a third bathroom to a two-bath house is a no-no, unless you don't care about ever recouping your investment. In effect, you have just waved goodbye to between £5,000 and £10,000.
New carpets. Surprisingly, new carpets add nothing to the value of a home. In other words, you spend £3,000 carpeting your home from top to bottom and it is worth no more at the end of the day than it was before. That said, if the previous carpet was in a terrible state, a new one will allow you to justify the asking price. In which case, go for the cheapest neutral carpet you can find.
NEWS ARTICLE: Need a re-roof - Think again ! by John Liles.
Is your home protected?
Many home owners do not realise just how much of their hard earned money is disapearing through the roof. Research shows that up to 40% of heat loss is because the roof or loft space is not insulated properly. New regulations aim to combat this but they only relate to new builds and loft conversions so older homes are still suffering. Typical problems are nail fatigue, slipped and broken slates or tiles, condensation, crumbling back pointing, torn roof felt or even no roof felt at all! When a roof starts to leak is about the time most people decide to address the problem, usualy deciding to re-roof the whole property.
There is an alternate.
Spray Polyurethane Foam is a product that has been around in the UK for over 20 years, yet most home owners are still unaware of the advantages of this system over a re-roof. It is suitable for application to any kind of roof structure, whether flat or pitched. This process restores and extends the life of the roof.
Polyurethane foam is a superior insulator than traditional methods.
"U" FACTOR represents the measurement of the amount of heat which passes through a composite of materials (U heat loss). Typical foam thickness used in the encapsulation of domestic roofing materials achieves the following U values: 20mm ..... ..... ..... U Value = .98 40mm ..... ..... ..... U Value = .52 70mm ..... ..... ..... U Value = .29 The lower the U-value the greater the heat retention. At a spray foam thickness of 40mm, there would be a need to incorporate the listed materials by the given percentage increase to achieve a comparable U-value and therefore the same degree of insulation. Polystyrene ..... 64mm ..... ( 60%) Mineral Fibre ..... 72mm ..... ( 80%) Cork ..... ..... 80mm ..... (100%) Cellular Glass 88mm ..... (120%)
Initially applied in a liquid form it expands to 20 times its original size and seals any unwanted air ingress. This locks the independent tiles into one solid structure, cutting heat loss by up to 80% and only adding 2Kg/m2 in weight to the roof. It ensures that the roof is more resistant to storms and gales preventing the ingress of wind driven dust, rain and snow. Spray Foam Insulation has the same breath-ability and combustibility as wood. It meets BS476 Part 1 Surface Spread of Flame. It does not present a fire risk and is also BBA approved. This Eco-friendly product is used and endorsed by local Councils, Health Authorities, commerce, industry and the domestic user throughout the UK.
So, before you decide on an expensive and disruptive re-roof take a look at Polyurethane Spray Foam Insulation, you will be surprised just how cost effective and affordable it realy is.
About the Author
John Liles is a damp proofing consultant based in the UK and founder of JML Associates. John gives advice to thousands of home owners on insulation, roof insulation, wall coatings, block paving sealants and damp proofing.
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ARTICLE: An Introduction to Waterproofing Systems by Peter Emerson.
Many homeowners find it necessary to invest in a waterproofing system for their home, especially if their home has a basement or cellar. In modern home developments, it is often required by state or local regulations to have a waterproofing system installed before the completion of the home. Without the proper installation of a waterproofing system, your home is at risk for water damage. In some areas, black mold is a frightful health concern. A good waterproofing system can help minimize water damage and the growth of black mold in prone areas. Other factors to consider when implementing a waterproofing system are the climate, landscape, weather and terrain of the area.
Why do basements leak? Basements can leak for a multitude of reasons. Water can build up because of cracks in walls or the floor, improperly installed or no footer tiles, pressure build up from the floor or walls, leaks from sweating basement pipes and leaks from basement windows, and for many other reasons as well. Mold is a dead giveaway that your basement has leakage or condensation problems. In cases of mold, it is imperative that you seek a professional installer for your waterproofing system.
Roof leakage is another common reason to turn to waterproofing. Spray polyurethane waterproofing is a popular method for waterproofing roofs and has been a top choice in roof maintenance for more than 35 years. Waterproofing/leak prevention and insulation value, better compressive strength, lightweight, durable and long lasting effects are why many homeowners choose the spray polyurethane waterproofing method.
Polyurethane foam is sprayed in the cracks and crevices of your roof. Once applied, the foam expands to more than 30 times its normal size and dries into a very hard compound. The foam dries in a short time and provides a long-lasting, weather resistant coating. Because it is a very lightweight material, many homeowners and contractors recommend it for both large and small jobs.
Before applying a spray polyurethane-waterproofing compound, it is important to prepare your roof for the application. Your roof needs to be clean, dry and free from any environmental contaminants in order for the foam to be properly applied. Most modern polyurethane waterproofing foams are long lasting. You can expect a properly applied coating to last anywhere between 10 and 15 years. In some cases, it has been reported that this foam has lasted for up to 50 years.
About the Author
Waterproofing Info provides detailed information on waterproofing systems, including injection waterproofing, foundation waterproofing, concrete waterproofing, deck waterproofing, basement waterproofing, and waterproofing basement walls, as well as waterproofing contractors and consultants. Waterproofing Info is affiliated with Business Plans by Growthink.
Painting Exterior Elastomeric Wallcoatings
Weathered elastomeric wall coatings may be refreshed by application of a quality exterior acrylic latex paint. Proper surface preparation must be done, and the paint applied under appropriate conditions.
Remove all dirt, mildew and chalk; treat mildew with a 3:1 water:bleach solution, leaving on for 20 minutes, then rinse thoroughly; careful power washing with plain water (no cleaning agent or bleach added), being sure to not drive water into any openings there may be in the existing coating.
Seal all cracks and openings, using a quality acrylic or siliconized acrylic caulk. Do not use silicone caulk.
Check entire elastomeric surface for blistering or other adhesion loss: A) carefully remove any blistering or failing coating; seal the edge of the surrounding remaining coating with a quality acrylic latex caulk; apply a water-based or solvent-based clear masonry sealer to the masonry surface thus exposed; then apply an elastomeric coating to the repaired area, overlapping it and feathering, onto the remaining elastomeric. B) identify any source of intruding water or moisture that may have caused the blistering or other adhesion loss, and eliminate it.
Apply a top quality exterior 100% acrylic latex house paint in a flat, satin or semigloss finish, that is recommended by the manufacturer for application over existing elastomeric coatings. It is important that steps be taken to minimize chance of cracking of the new paint as applied over the elastomeric:
The paint must be of high quality, meaning, for example, that with flat paints, excessive extenders should not be used, that appropriate mildewcide is included, that an appropriate binder is employed, etc.; therefore, the manufacturer's top line product should be specified.
The paint must be applied under moderate weather conditions: applying below the recommended minimum application temperature can result in serious cracking; it is
preferable that the air temperature be at or above the minimum recommended application temperature for at least the following 24 hours.
The paint must be applied at sufficient thickness. In general, a dry paint film of 1.5 mils per coat is appropriate; two coats will provide ample crack resistance. Prethinning of the paint will reduce the solids content by volume, and additional wet paint film thickness has to be applied to compensate, so pre-thinning should be discouraged.
There is always the chance that some cracking of the new paint will occur at some point, so it can be helpful to utilize a color similar to that of the existing elastomeric coating to minimize show-through.
The above story was taken from Never Paint Again.
About elastomeric wallcoatings
Elastomeric wall coatings (EWCs) are thick, flexible coatings used to help protect and maintain the appearance of exterior masonry walls. EWCs are designed to bridge existing and future cracks in masonry by stretching and shrinking as exterior walls expand and contract with changes in temperature. Use of an EWC is an excellent way to help prevent winddriven rain, acid rain and freeze-thaw conditions from damaging a building’s appearance and structural integrity.
EWCs are typically applied at dry film thickness that is at least five to six times that of conventional exterior paint. For premium performance, the Paint Quality Institute recommends elastomeric coatings be applied at a minimum dry film thickness of 16 mils. Use of greater film thickness will improve performance. A thick dry film is needed to give the coating its crackbridging and other functional properties and will contribute to maintaining the overall appearance.
Care must be taken to keep moisture from getting into the masonry from above or behind (cracked wall caps, leaking roofs, sweating pipes, etc.). Moisture from behind the coating can cause blistering and, in the case of very alkaline masonry, deterioration of applied coatings.
Application at high film build will help ensure:
excellent dirt resistance
The Paint Quality Institute offers several recommendations for selecting and getting the best results when using an EWC:
Chose a top quality EWC formulated with a 100% acrylic elastomeric binder.
Surface preparation is essential; remove efflorescence salts, dust, unbound sand, dirt and mildew from weathered masonry; apply a primer or sealer to chalky or porous masonry.
Seal crack of 1/16” or larger (before applying sealer or primer) with a top quality acrylic or siliconized acrylic latex caulk recommended by the EWC manufacturer.
Don’t apply an EWC directly to fresh, highly alkaline surfaces.
Apply an alkali-resistant sealer or primer over fresh masonry to help prevent alkali burn and efflorescence.
Apply a minimum dry EWC film thickness of 16 mils to achieve desired flexibility and crackbridging capability. Increased film thickness improves performance.
Apply two coats of EWC rather than one thick coat to help ensure a uniform film thickness, as well as cover any pinholes or holidays that may appear in the first coat.
Achieving the most attractive finish with textured elastomeric wall coatings
Article reproduced from Dehaven Construction. Visit their excellent website at: DeHaven construction.com
As with any textured coating systems, achieving the best outcome of a textured finish depends upon several factors. Selecting the right textured coating for the job is a critical step. Most textured coatings are made for application on masonry, stucco, cinder block, and concrete. Some can also be applied to properly prepared wood, and metal. In addition, textured coatings are also made for a variety of commercial (high rises, museums, hotels, tunnels, for example) and residential locations, and in rehab and new construction. These coatings are extremely versatile. Textured coatings offer application and performance advantages in interior and exterior locations, and in all types of weather.
Once the right kind of textured coating has been selected. Surface preparation is the next key step in achieving excellent product performance. In general, any surface that will be coated with a textured finish must be free of all loose dirt, oil and mildew. In addition, efflorescence and chalk, which could affect product adhesion, should be cleaned away. Loose pieces of surface debris should also be removed. In most cases (except where noted by the manufacturer) new concrete should be allowed to age 30 days before a coating is applied. To insure a continuous coating application, all cracks, gaps and joints should be filled with a compatible compound recommended by the manufacturer. Applying an appropriate primer, if specified by the manufacturer, is the final step before the textured coating is applied.
Before Texcote Elastomeric Smooth
How the textured coating will be applied is another consideration. Textured coatings come in a wide variety of profiles from smooth high build systems to textured coatings that are filled with textured material. In most situations, textured coatings can be spray applied with specialized equipment designed to spray textured paints. However, textured coatings can be applied with a brush or roller in some areas. Special attachments to spray equipment may be necessary for some textured coatings, so be sure to carefully look over product literature for application recommendations. Some textured coatings can even be manipulated by hand with masonry or stucco tools after the coating has been sprayed on to the surface.
Finally, equipment clean up will be determined by the type of coating used: paint thinners are effective with solvent-based systems, and soap and water is suitable for water-based products.
Durable and Decorative Textured and Smooth Elastomeric Coatings
Textured coatings are gaining popularity over other products that have been used in the past. In many installations like offices, hotels and hospitals, textured coatings have replaced vinyl wall coverings because of their durability and resistance to mold and mildew. Vinyl wall coverings create a vapor barrier that traps moisture. As a result, mold and mildew formation under these wall coverings is not uncommon. However, textured coatings are made to "breathe" which allows moisture to escape. Another advantage offered by many textured coatings is their low odor and easy application. In most cases, applying these coatings is no different than other architectural finishes. Textured coatings are extremely durable and scrubbable, which makes these coatings an excellent choice for not only residential, but high traffic areas like auditoriums, lobbies and school buildings.
After Texcote Elastomeric Smooth
In addition to the many interesting patterns and designs that can be created with textured coatings, a wide range of color choices is also possible. Blending in with the design scheme and decorating materials used on a project is not a cause for concern.
It is important for the contractors, owners, architects and specifiers to realize that these textured coatings are designed for high performance and far exceed the functions of typical masonry paints and stucco. They will provide many years of waterproofing, extended surface life and decorative treatment.
Application Procedures for Texcoating for smooth and textured finishes
Trenching to the foundation
Masking and covering all areas subject to overspray
Water blast (3500-4000 psi) or sand blasting to remove loose stucco and peeling paint
If efflorescence is present, chemically treat the surface
Repair stucco surfaces with cement patching compounds and water proofing cement as necessary
Allow surfaces to dry at least 24 hours before application of primer and sealers
Apply primer/sealer at rate of ¼ gallon per 100 square feet
If efflorescence has been a problem, apply an efflorescence inhibiting masonry primer
Allow primer and sealers to dry per manufacturer instructions
Apply textured coatings at manufacturer recommended rate: approximately 2½ to 3 gallons per 100 square feet at approximately 500 psi to desired texture and pattern (if smooth: spray and back roll)
Textured coatings are available in standard and custom colors
Trim painting process:
Thoroughly scrape and sand all wood and metal surfaces
Glaze windows as necessary
Replace or repair damaged wood
Apply full prime coat to all surfaces to be painted
Apply second prime coat to all patches and repairs
Apply finish coat by hand brushing
(Manufacturer specification and MSD sheets available on request)
Textured Coating Warranties
Most manufacturer warranties are similar and contain some or all of the following:
Upon completion of Texcoating application in accordance with the manufacturer recommendations, manufacturer will extend its limited residential or commercial warranty for product replacement as a result of defects in the material.
Manufacturer must be notified prior to application of textured coating. Textured coating application must be in compliance manufacturer's recommended installation procedures.
Manufacturer shall have no obligation to provide or participate in labor costs associated with effecting repairs.
No particular maintenance is required, however, should the product become soiled, simply clean with light water pressure and mild detergent.
If moisture sources or efflorescence is present, water sources must be located and eliminated prior to coating application. This is not the responsibility of the coating applicator but it is the responsibility of the property owner to do so. This work should be done by a general, building contractor.
Possible Sources of Moisture
Missing or defective rain gutters and down spouts
Improper grading of lot (soil, slab and walkways pitching toward the structure, allowing water to accumulate at the foundation)
Leaking garden spigots or sprinklers spraying on the structure, accumulating at the foundation
Improper lot drainage
Moisture is generated by cooking and bathing, which works its way into the attic. If the attic is not properly ventilated, the moisture can eventually cause problems such as delaminating of roof sheeting, water streaking, staining, mold and mildew, dry rot and; flaking, peeling and bubbling paint on interior and exterior walls.
Don't Be Wet When It Comes To Tackling Damp
As featured in the Plymouth Independent newspaper, January 30th 2005. Originally titled "DIY advice with Suzanna Bain". Adapted to an internet resource by Never Paint Again™. To advertise in the Plymouth and Sunday Independent newspapers, or to report a news story, call their team on (01752) 206600.
If you leave that ever-growing damp patch for very much longer without paying any serious attention to it, all you are proving is that you are a real drip when it comes to tackling home DIY.
Damp is a house killer but you need to work out where it is coming from. The water responsible for damp patches may be coming down from the sky, up from the ground, or even from inside your house.
That spot on the wall could be due to a dodgy down pipe leaking water all over the walls. It makes sense to check out the channels that remove the rainwater from your home before the weather gets really wet.
The most common problem with down pipes is that they often become blocked. If they, or the gutters leading to them, overflow or leak damp may spread over the walls.
Most down pipes first get blocked at the top and then are often obstructed further down as the blockage sinks down the pipe under the pressure of the rain.
Cast iron pipes may crack if damp material stuck inside freezes. When they thaw the pipes will leak and the leaks may cause damage. Cracked down pipes must be repaired as soon as possible.
Gutters can often leak at the joints between sections. They may become blocked and overflow, or they may become blocked and overflow, or they may sag so that water does not run away properly. In each case, water may soak into the wall and penetrate to the inside.
Even on a cavity wall, water may find a way from the outer to the inner leaf.
Cast-iron gutter sections are usually sealed with putty at joints and then bolted together. The putty may disintegrate in time and in extreme cases the bolts may rust and drop out. A plastic gutter may leak because the clip that seals two sections together has become loose.
Sometimes screws holding a gutter bracket to the fascia board rust away or the fascia board itself might rot, causing the brackets to move and the gutter sections to sag.
The water in the walls may be coming from inside your house, courtesy of faulty plumbing. For example, water from a dripping overflow pipe may splash onto a wall, causing gradually increasing amounts of damage.
Faults in a damp-proof course may allow water to rise from the ground and soak into the wall. You may need to install a new damp-proof course. Soil heaped over a damp- proof course can also cause damp.
Defective pointing will allow water to penetrate the outer part of the wall and should be re-pointed. Excessive damp in an external wall should be dealt with as soon as possible before it can damage the interior. You can usually see the damp patch because the wet brickwork or masonry is a different colour from the dry parts.
Facing brick naturally absorbs a certain amount of rainwater, which penetrates partly into the wall. When the weather dries up, the moisture evaporates and no harm is done. In older houses, some bricks may become over-porous so that they do not dry completely. This could lead to damp penetrating indoors.
In most cases treating the external face of the wall with a silicone water repellent will cure the damp. Mortar between bricks may become highly porous and carry water into the wall.
This fault often becomes apparent after a freeze, as the water expands it breaks up the mortar, which will crumble and fall out of the joints. Cracks and gaps in a rendered surface may allow damp to penetrate and be held in the wall. In extreme cases this can lead to blisters that must be cut away before rendering is repaired.
Timber cladding, which forms part of an exterior wall, must be protected by preservative or paint if it is not to be affected by damp otherwise wet rot may set in. Plastic cladding is not affected by damp but gaps surrounding the cladding must be sealed.
Finally, make sure there are no gaps around window and doorframes. If rain soaks between the masonry and the frame, rot may set into the timber and must be removed.
A Bullet-Proof Fix For Aging Concrete
By Terry Stephens, Special to the Journal
PermaCrete used on highways, bridges, building entrances, loading docks and walkways, is tough enough to stop a bullet.
Why should concrete be ugly, stained, faded or chipped? That's the way concrete is often seen but PermaCrete, a Nashville, Tenn., producer of protective acrylic polymer cement compounds for resurfacing new or worn concrete surfaces, believes all concrete can be beautiful.
A year ago, with a network of 600 Dealerships across America, PermaCrete opened its first West Coast distribution center in Los Angeles to help pave its way into new construction markets in the western states.
Today, there over 900 Dealers in the United States and many foreign countries.
The company's various PermaCrete products don't replace concrete, but they strengthen, protect and beautify concrete structures with a 1/8- to 2-inch layer of material that withstands 6,000 psi of compressed weight, effectively rated at twice the overall strength and endurance of standard concrete.
Applications in various colors work well over concrete, masonry and steel from highways, bridges and building entrances to loading docks, pool decks and walk-ways. Sealed and non-porous, the PermaCrete products are extremely resistant to industrial chemicals, oils, stains, mildew, intense heat and freeze-thaw environments. Recent ballistic tests have shown that even 1/8 inch-thick PermaCrete surfaces (applied to aluminum panels for backing) used on residential and commercial surfaces can withstand penetration from .38 caliber, .45 caliber and 9 millimeter weapons fired from only 18 inches away. Additionally PermaCrete's vertical coatings used on building exteriors, provide protection from tornadoes, hurricanes and hail.
The product is easily applied over worn,cracked and uneven surfaces in smooth or patterned finishes, can be used for either new or retrofitted projects and provides a slip-resistant surface that surpasses the Federal Trade Commission's standards.
Plus, its resilience means savings on previously high-maintenance areas once they're coated with PermaCrete and also adds to the intrinsic value of real estate properties because the coating is long-lasting.
"The concrete business in this country is a $100 billion industry," said PermaCrete's Senior Vice President Greg Hill."We've had phenomenal response to our product because concrete, once it's poured, lasts for a long time, long enough to deteriorate.
We just go in and fix it without tearing everything out. We do kitchen floors at McDonalds, interstate highways, bridges, interior floors, warehouses and exteriors of residential and commercial buildings."
There are other concrete-surfacing materials on the market, he said, but "ours are unique in their characteristics and wide range of applications, plus unique in being fire-rated that can be used on the sides of buildings as well as on a driveway, yet with similar strengths and sealing ratings," he said.
PermaCrete owes its existence to President and CEO George Henderson's search for a high-quality resurfacing product for the area around his swimming pool. Realizing the potential market for such a product, he formed Quality Systems, Inc. (QSI) with $250,000 of his own capital in 1990, hired two employees and began two years of research with several chemists to create PermaCrete. The product name has since become his business name.
But, Henderson didn't envision just the swimming pool market. He saw pallet-damaged loading docks, pock-marked highway bridge surfaces, worn stucco and plaster building exteriors and deteriorated paved areas around commercial and industrial buildings and warehouses.
Today, the company's files are filled with letters from satisfied customers that include the Sheraton Music City Hotel, for resurfacing its faded indoor and outdoor pool decks; the Allegheny Center Plaza for coating its shopping area with a surface that withstood Pennsylvania's harsh winters and significantly reduced annual maintenance; and the Nashville Convention Center, where a traffic-damaged 3,300 square-foot loading area was resurfaced, producing a new surface that engineers said looked better than the original installation.
PermaCrete adds five to 10 new Dealerships each week from its expanding backlog of more than 10,000 companies that have inquired about carrying the PermaCrete products. The company recently closed an exclusive contract with United Driveways to serve the United Kingdom, adding to its global markets in Europe, the Far East, South America, Canada, Mexico, Bermuda and parts of the Caribbean.
In 2002, Henderson plans to take his company public to raise capital to finance an expansion of its domestic and world markets. To date, the company has subsidized all of its growth from its increasing product sales, he said.