Categories » Home Improvement And DIY » Flooring, Paths And Drives 

Before you begin you will need, other than the aforementioned tools, enough weather-treated 2x6’s to place end to end along each side of your walkway, a roll of six-mil plastic sheeting, gravel, sand, and strong weed killer.

Decide the location of your walkway, it’s course and it’s length. If you feel more secure by doing so, you may want to outline it with pegs and string.

As I said, we’re going to be overly-cautious from the beginning. You want your walkway to last a long time and, horrors, you don’t want weeds. So we’re going to take special care with the footer. A little bit of extra work now will save a lot of grief in the future. I can’t emphasize that enough. (By the way, my definition of a weed is any plant that is growing where I don’t want it to.)

Start by digging a long, narrow trench -- maybe about an inch or two deep -- that will outline both edges of your walkway. Use your rule occasionally to be sure that the width is consistent -- about three feet should be enough, but you may opt for something a bit wider or narrower. At the beginning of the walk, or at the end, or both, you may also want to flair out the sides a bit. When your trenches are finished, you’re ready to dig the footer.

Scoop out the footer between your guides, about six inches deep. Keep the depth as consistent as possible. Then work the soil at each edge of the footer with a rake so that there is about 1 inch of loose soil on top, and about four inches from each side.

As I said before, the last thing you want is weeds and grass to infest your walkway. So we’re going after those little buggers with a vengeance. After you dig the footer, place the weather treated boards along each side to keep herbicide from contaminating the surrounding grass. You may have to cut these in several pieces to fit, especially if your walkway curves. Pound them into the loose soil at the bottom of the footer to make a tight seal. Then apply the weed killer to the bare soil. Be sure to read the directions on the package so you won’t pollute the neighborhood. Depending on the strength of the brew, a single application should kill most of the seeds and spores present.

Once the footer has been sterilized, remove the boards and put them aside. Begin cutting the plastic sheeting from your roll with ordinary scissors. The plastic should cover the entire bottom of the footer and lap up the sides about halfway. Just be to sure that nothing left alive in the soil can grow and punch through the plastic, I used three layers for my base. I would recommend at least two. You can buy the stuff in various sized rolls at your local farm supply, and it’s fairly cheap. Farmers use it to cover hay bales stored outside their barns.

Once you have laid all your sheeting, replace the weather treated 2x6’s along the sides of your footer. Rap them home with your rubber hammer and, again, make a tight seal, but not enough to rip the plastic. The tops of the boards should be about a quarter-inch higher than the top of the ground. Now spread clean sand over the sheeting to a depth of about two inches. This will provide some cushioning so that the stones you are about to spread won’t punch through the plastic.

The choice of gravel is up to you. Smooth, round river gravel comes in various sizes from about 1/2 inch to three inches in diameter. The one inch size is just about right. For my own walkway, I used crushed limestone. I think it looks better and its irregular surface prevents it from shifting around too much under the movement of feet. The downside is that some of the rocks have pretty sharp edges and can cut through the plastic sheeting if you neglect to add the sand for cushioning.

Rake your stones so that the top of the walkway is about one half inch below the top of the boards. Then wet the whole sidewalk down thoroughly with a water hose. Be certain, however, that at least one end of walkway is not blocked. You’ll want a place for water to drain.

Treat any weed that pokes its head though the gravel like your worst enemy. Pluck it out before it has a chance to seed and spread. If you are careful from the very beginning, you probably won’t have this problem. When cutting grass, for instance, never allow cuttings to spray your walkway. And I treat my walkway twice a year with weed killer. The first weed has yet to show its ugly face.

It simply wouldn’t dare!

ARTICLE: Terrazo floors: how to remove stains: For those of you who have installed terrazo or terra cotta flooring this article will instruct you on how to properly clean and remove stubborn stains from this delicate flooring.

One of the most popular home improvements is upgrading your flooring. Undertaking this task can be time consuming, but the end result is rewarding. Once installed not only have you beautified your home but also increased its value.

One of the most popular flooring upgrades today is to convert your linoleum to Terrazo, or Terra Cotta Flooring.

Terrazo, or Terra Cotta flooring is beautiful and also impressive, but can also be a chore to keep clean and stain free. Before choosing either of these floorings you should research them thoroughly to make sure that they suit your lifestyle.

There are many sealers for this type tile available on the market today. Using a sealer protectant is extremely important. Sealers will provide a clear coating, which will keep the tile from cracking and also protect it from extreme staining. Sealers will not completely protect the tile from stains but they will help the porous tile to resist them.

If you are faced with a spill that could possibly stain your tile, be sure you are familiar with the proper method of removal before you apply any household chemical treatment. Even though many chemicals state that they are specifically for use on this type tile you should read instructions carefully, and use them cautiously.

Make sure to always spot test before a total application. Pick a test site which will be hidden if the chemical cleaner used stains or discolors your tile. The best place to test is a corner, or a small area which is hidden under furniture.

Apply a small amount of chemical in your chosen area and wait for at least three hours before checking the test site. If the chemical shows no discoloration to your tile you may use it freely. Always make sure to use the chemical as directed and in a well ventilated area. Be sure to remove all of the chemical from your flooring once you have completed your cleaning task.

Many household stains are very common and are easily removed. Some stains are not so easy and require extra care in the cleaning process. For common stains there are several products that you can use freely.

More difficult stains such as paint, varnish, and motor oil require a stronger, more toxic application of cleaning fluids. Some of the more difficult stains like these mentioned may require TSP or other harsh chemicals to be used for removal of stains. In instances like these mentioned you should consult your local hardware store, or hire a professional for the job.

After that weekend party you hosted, you may be faced with alcoholic beverage stains. Alcohol stains will usually show on the floor with a distinctive white frost around the edges of the stain.

To remove alcoholic beverage stains you may use plain laundry detergent and warm water. By applying the detergent solution to the tile with a soft sponge you will not run the risk of scratching your tile. Do not rub the solution into the tile but gently rub in a circular motion lightly over the stain. Remove the solution with plain warm water. Dab any excess water up with a dry sponge and then allow the area to dry.

If you are faced with a wine stain the following method works well. Place a soft absorbant cloth over the area. Pour hydrogen peroxide over the top of the cloth. Allow the peroxide cloth to sit over the stained area for one half hour. When the time has elapsed, remove the cloth and dab the area with warm water until your confident that all the peroxide has been removed. Allow the area to dry well.

Blood stains are not as hard to remove as you may imagine.

Saturate the blood stain with cold water. Add seven drops of household ammonia to the water. Allow the water and ammonia to sit on the stain for fifteen minutes. To remove the solution you should use a sponge to absorb the bulk of the solution, then add clean cold water to the area to remove any left over solution. Dry the area with a soft dry cloth. Allow the damp area to air dry.

Another method is to use malt and water to remove blood stains. Simply add three tablespoons of malt to a half gallon of water. Dab the solution on to the stain directly. As soon as you dab the solution onto the spot, remove it with a dry soft cloth. Repeat these steps until the stain has completely lifted.

Coffee stains can easily be removed from tile of any kind. Simply add one tablespoon of abrasive cleanser to a gallon of warm water. Mix well until the cleanser has disolved completely. Dab on to stain and let the solution sit on the stain for one half hour. Remove the solution with clear cold water and a soft cloth.

For grease and oil splatters try dishwashing liquid. Place straight dishwashing liquid onto the grease spot and allow to sit for fifteen minutes. Remove the dishwashing by dabbing it with a slightly damp sponge until all the liquid has been removed from the flooring. Allow the floor to air dry.

Pet accidents are easily and quickly fixed with the following method. You should begin by making a poltice of abrasive cleanser and water. A good rule of thumb is three tablespoons of abrasive cleanser to ten drops of water. Mix the abrasive cleanser and water into a thick dry paste. Place the paste on the pet stain area. Rub the paste into the stain then add three more drops of water. Allow paste to sit on stain for one half hour. Remove paste with a damp sponge until all the paste has been removed.

Another method of removing pet stains is with lemon juice and hydrogen peroxide.Dampen a small soft cloth with lemon juice. Place the cloth over the stain and allow to sit for two minutes. Pour three tablespoons of hydrogen peroxide over the cloth and allow this to sit on stain for another five minutes. Remove the cloth. Sponge the area with warm water until all the lemon juice and peroxide have been removed from the area.

Before undertaking any cleaning project always take precautions. Be sure to know your chemicals and what they do. It is best to familiarize yourself with the adverse reactions the chemicals can cause. Do not be fooled by natural products because even these can be harmful if used improperly.